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Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:29 pm

Hey all,
I am from Nebraska...you know...the state everyone tries to ride around if they can, and if they cant...they try to get through as quick as possible...that's me.

I am looking at 2 CB900c's and imagine I will get one or the other.
one is an '80 and about perfect. The other is an '81 with a couple minor issues (rear brakes, and will need a new rear tire) but has the full fairing and all the bags...which is kinda cool.

will keep ya posted. will prob be posting more in the chit chat board.

Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:31 pm

You need them both. NEED!!

(Welcome!)

Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:44 pm

I am sure that I do NEED them both. However my wife thinks she NEEDS the money...so I will only be allowed to get one right now.

The '80 that is naked is 1100 asking and in great shape save a dent in the tank.

the '81 with a couple minor issues is 900 asking...but again has the fairing and all the bags.

dunno which one I will end up with...one is 3 hours away...so a pain just to even go look at it.

Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:48 pm

Well, if you do get the '81 and decide to remove the fairings and bags, you could get between $500-$700 for all depending on condition.

Both seem like good prices. Kinda depends on what you want for a riding style and how much work (read: $$$$) the '81 will cost to get everything right. You know you'll find all the help you need here....

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:58 am

That is cool to know about the fairing/bags etc. Makes it seem like that is the better deal.

I will be looking at these bikes the next couple of days. I will assume that a small amount of oil leek is typical in a 28yr old bike. Anything I really need to be aware of?

One says that the bike slips at higher RPM's in 2nd gear. He has a set of gears...but has not replaced them.

is there a 'what to look for when purchasing' thread somewhere on this board? Also are there any other good web sites I should check out before buying?

Thanks a TON>

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:59 am

What does he mean by "slip" in 2nd gear? Beware!

Look for rust in the tanks. More rust, more problems.

A few leaks are typical. The rubber seals/o-ring dry out and become hard and brittle and start to leak.

If you have any wrenching experience, should be no problem to fix for you.

Full service manual download available right here on the site.

Welcome! Let's party!

8)

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:54 am

I am going to try and go ride the one that supposedly slips in 2nd...
so I should be able to describe better later tonight.

Will keep you posted.

Any other inspection tips, things to look for would be awsome...or is there already a post with all of that info?

I will look around but if anyone has a link that would be helpful, let me know.
THanks.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:15 am

Website here for you Smile

It would be great if you could take someone along that knows vintage motorcycles.

As to slipping in second, I would guess it is a clutch issue, but it should also do it in first to a greater degree. If the gears are slipping then the tranny is shot.

Here is a good bit of advice on Japanese motorcycles that have transmission problems: don't buy them. To replace the transmission on the typical Japanese bike you have to pull the engine down to the bone to replace gears.

That being said there are clutch issues are pretty simple to fix. A few bolts and you have access to the clutch. Pretty simple from there.

The Honda's DOHC inlines all have a problem in this era, and this might be the "slip". The shifter on theme dosen't let the tranny mesh properly into second gear, so the bike will pop out of second. If that is the case it's a pretty simple fix.

Best of luck on the hunt.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:23 am

Welcome to DOHC Customs.
Listen carefully to the engine when it runs and try to hear bad noises coming from the bottom end or excessive noises coming from the top end.

The transmission slipping is about $75.00 in parts plus labor to fix it, not too terribly expensive or complicated to fix a clutch.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:05 am

quakeholio wrote:

Website here for you Smile

Here is a good bit of advice on Japanese motorcycles that have transmission problems: don't buy them. To replace the transmission on the typical Japanese bike you have to pull the engine down to the bone to replace gears.

I am guessing that this is the problem here...he said that he had purchased a new set of gears but had just not had to the time to replace them. Said that it was a PITA to get too it...but once you got to it, it was not that hard.

I will keep this in mind as I go and look tonight. I am NOT taking cash with me, so this should make it easier to NOT make an impulse buy...hahaha.

Both owners are saying that they are getting 35-40 mpg on the bikes...from the poll seems about normal...although once I get one I will be asking what I can do to get it closer to the 50 mark some of you are getting...

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:08 am

mcompton1973 wrote:

although once I get one I will be asking what I can do to get it closer to the 50 mark some of you are getting...

The best way to get that kind of mileage is to keep your hand off the throttle. Rolling Eyes

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:40 am

Welcome to the site ... Smile

Take pictures ... Smile

and show us what you are buying or thinking of ...

Specially any problems that can be seen .

We'll do our best to give you the best assesment . Smile

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:26 am

Quote:

Both owners are saying that they are getting 35-40 mpg on the bikes...from the poll seems about normal...although once I get one I will be asking what I can do to get it closer to the 50 mark some of you are getting...

No fairing! This will kill your mileage. Both mine with fairings only get 40 mpg.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:30 am

I think the only ones getting close to 50mpg aren't so good with math.... Very Happy

Hmmm.....things to look for....Well, first of course is cosmetics which I'll pretty much leave up to you. However, I do try to notice if there's rusty bits in hard to get places indicating that it's been left outside for some time and the seller has just polished it up (AKA shining a turd).

First, look at it on the sidestand. Does it stand kind of upright or lean over? Upright might mean new fork springs ($50)/fork oil or the rear shocks aren't holding air.

Now look around for leaks. Did the seller roll it out for you to see or does it seem like it's in in normal parking place so you can see any puddles underneath? Look over the engine, forks, and shocks as well as the rear wheel for fluids. Many leaks are pretty cheap and easy to fix, just post the results back here. Might as well pull the dipstick to see just how black and sludgy the seller allows his oil to get. Another indication of poor maintenance to look at the larger tube behind the right sidecover. This is the clear one with the cap on it and is the crankcase breather tube. It should be emptied once in awhile.

Check for pressure in the front forks and rear shocks. Do they have and hold pressure? Max is about 15psi for the front and 65psi for the read IIRC (I removed my rear air shocks).

Sit on the bike and bounce the front up and down. How far does the front settle when bouncing? Should only be and inch or so. Again, fork springs/fork oil. Does the rear feel good and return to resting position quickly after you stop bouncing (like testing car shocks).

Apply the front brakes and release. Will the bike still roll? Now do the rear. If either seize, you need to clean and perhaps rebuild the calipers and maybe the master cylinders. Not too much $$$ there.

Now get the bike running. Are all 4 pipes equally hot? Any strange noises? Do they go away when you pull in the clutch? The clutch was mentioned above and if the bike is 'slipping' (RPMs go up but the speed doesn't) then an inexpensive clutch rebuild is needed. If it's popping out of gear...well....that's also covered above.

Bike should idle smoothly somewhere between 1100-1700RPM.

If you can, remove the seat (2 bolts, one on each side about 2/3 of the way back and then slide the seat back) and check the battery voltage. Should be 14.4v @ 3000RPM.

Now that you hopefully trust the brakes to release, ride it around a bit. Smooth acceleration? Return to idle smoothly? Easily out run the neighbor dog now chasing you down the street? Feels like you got kicked in the ass at about 6000RPM (it should)?

Hope all this helps

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:35 pm

ok, so the one bike with the fairings sold today before I could go look at it.
SO...the other bike is the one that I need to look at.

I saved the pictures that the guy emailed me, and they are here:

http://www.hardestworkingplanner.com/bikepics

I wanted them on a separate page because they are a little large...and this is AFTER I resized them smaller.

This is the one that might have a tranny issue with 2nd gear. Again, he HAS the gears...but I would have to do the labor IF that is really the problem.

he wants 1100. There is a good dent in the other side of the tank. It fell over on a short poll at the bank drive through is what I was told. not actually put down on the side.

he says it is a little cold blooded as well...so maybe some sea foam will help that...but I am guessing carbs cleaned and synch'd?

I will tell you more after I ride it tonight...(hopefully)

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:52 pm

A dent AND the 2nd gear issue? IMO he's asking $400-$500 too much. Sorry, I can't see any pics in the link you provided....

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:04 pm

OK, the link shoudl work now...

sorry...I am not a pro web designer....hahaha.

give this a shot:

http://www.hardestworkingplanner.com/bikepics

$500 too high huh? I figured like 200-300 too high.
Well I will keep you posted.

let me know what you think when you can see the pics

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:36 pm

OK, I can see it now and thanks. Here's my thoughts and I hope others weigh in...

Looks pretty clean but not original paint. You'll have to see if it's a pro or rattle can job. Original exhaust looks good and is worth something.

Seat cover looks kinda sloppy. That's what my upholstery jobs look like and going pro is cheap.

Missing chrome airbox cover and subtransmission cover. Also looks like the sidecover emblem has been stripped.

Maybe I'm a bit high (low?) in the amount over but I've just been looking at a real nice CB900F in Atlanta for $1200 which is pretty low. I guess I'd say $1000 is fair if it's a runner but if you have to rebuild the transmission......OK, maybe $700 and that's if you're a good mechanic.

Anyone else???

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:40 pm

Quote:

Anyone else???

no

Quote:

a good mechanic.

theres only one version of mechanic..good

anything else is not a mechanic

$400.00

thats what it's worth for parts

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:15 pm

He said that he has the chrome pieces...said he did not like them, too flashy.

Interesting takes.

I will see what the guy is really looking for when I get there, and I will see what the transmission is actually doing when I ride it.

Will keep you informed.

It is worth more than 400 to me...lol. But not 1100. There are not too many bikes here in NE so my choices are limited.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:00 pm

it's a sellers market

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:06 pm

If you want a 900C, take your time. One will come along that is just what the doctor ordered.

You sure do not want to take the first one that pops up and happens to have multiple problems and then have to sink a bunch of cash and work into it.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:11 pm

if you cant do your own work, it can be intimidating

it,s not a bad looking bike, if it was next to me , I would seriously consider it, but, I have parts and am able to repair whats wrong

on ebay there should be some really close to you

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:48 pm

There are a lot around that are a lot nicer for $1000. THis ones not bad but I'd say $700 is enough.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:13 pm

ok, I checked it out and rode it tonight.

I think overall it is an OK bike...and not so bad that it needs to be parted out.

Here is the deal with the Tranny. It shifts into 2nd normally, and accelerates normally...and then when you get to right before 5k, you get this little click...and it is pulls out a little more. Without knowing that much more about this model etc...what it seemed like to me was that maybe in 2nd it is moving between the 2h and 2l maybe? I dont know. It is not slipping like a car would when the clutch wears out...It is not poping out of gear...but it is doing 'something'.

I would not say that I am a mechanic...but I can follow directions, and pretty mechanically inclined. So far, I have not found anything I have not been able to fix with a Clymers, and some time....hahaha.